The Philippe Collotte Marsannay Rosé 2024 is a dry, pale-crimson rosé of Pinot Noir from Marsannay in Burgundy, built on tart red fruit and a chalky, savoury edge rather than sweetness. Marsannay is the only appellation in Burgundy permitted to label rosé under its own village name, and this is one of its benchmarks.

Aromas run to wild strawberry, redcurrant, blood orange peel and a touch of rosewater, with a dusty mineral note sitting underneath. The palate follows the same line — crunchy cherry and rhubarb, a squeeze of citrus — and stays firmly dry through the middle.

Texture is the point of difference here: there is a light grip from the Pinot Noir skins that gives the wine a gentle chew, and the acidity is bright without being sharp. Collotte works his Marsannay vines without chemical weedkillers and ferments with indigenous yeasts only, which shows in the wine's clarity and its slightly earthy, unmade-up finish.

Pour it with charcuterie, a warm goat's cheese salad, cold roast chicken, prawns with garlic and parsley, or a bowl of salmon rillettes and good bread. It has enough structure for grilled quail or pork belly, so it can hold a table through a whole meal rather than just the first hour.

Drink the Marsannay Rosé 2024 now and over the next two years, well chilled but not iced — around 10°C lets the red fruit and minerality speak.