The Thibaud Boudignon Rosé de Loire 2024 is a pale, tightly drawn rosé from the Loire Valley, built on Cabernet Franc and pitched closer to a white wine in shape than to a fruit-driven pink. Grown on organically farmed parcels around Anjou and Savennières, it is dry, savoury and unusually precise.

Aromatically it leads with white peach, redcurrant and crushed rose petal, with a twist of white pepper and a wet-stone edge that keeps the fruit in check. The palate is light-bodied and taut, running red apple skin and pink grapefruit across the tongue rather than sweet berry.

Structure comes from acidity rather than weight, and there is a fine chalky grip through the middle that gives the wine more presence than its colour suggests. The finish is dry and mineral, tapering off with a faint saline lift that pulls you straight back for another mouthful.

Serve it cold but not icy with grilled prawns, salt-baked snapper, jamón and melon, chicken salads with tarragon, or a plate of goat's cheese and radishes. It also handles lightly spiced food better than most rosé, so laksa-adjacent lunches are fair game.

Drink from now through to 2027. This is a rosé with enough structure to reward a year or two in the cellar, when the fruit softens and the stony, herbal side steps forward.