The Farnese Edizione Cinque Autoctoni 2021 is a deep, full-bodied Italian red built from five indigenous varieties — Montepulciano, Primitivo, Sangiovese, Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera — with the fruit drawn from Puglia and Abruzzo. Ripe and generous rather than austere, it is the southern Italian style that wins over people who normally reach for Barossa Shiraz.

Blackberry, dark plum and macerated cherry lead the aromatics, trailed by dried herbs, cinnamon, cocoa and liquorice. The five varieties are matured separately before blending, with thirteen months in new American and French barriques adding cedar and sweet spice that sits behind the fruit rather than over it.

The palate is broad and warm through the middle, carrying real weight without turning soupy. Tannins are plentiful but softly grained, and a thread of acidity and faint mineral bite keeps the finish long and savoury instead of merely sweet.

Pair the Edizione Cinque Autoctoni with slow-cooked lamb shoulder, beef short ribs, sausages with lentils, or a baked pasta heavy on tomato and aged pecorino. It also stands up to barbecued meats with a bit of char on them.

Drinking well now with an hour in a decanter, and the structure here suggests it will hold and gain complexity through to around 2031.