Château Maucamps 2007 is a mature, gravel-grown Haut-Médoc red from the commune of Macau in Bordeaux, built on Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and a touch of Petit Verdot. Nearly two decades on, it trades primary fruit for savoury, tertiary complexity and a gentle, resolved frame.

The colour has shifted to garnet with a brick rim. Aromas run to dried blackcurrant, tobacco leaf, damp earth and cedar, with a graphite edge underneath that keeps the whole thing from feeling merely old.

Medium-bodied and cool in profile, Maucamps carries the mark of 2007, a wet and challenging growing season in the Médoc that produced lighter, earlier-drinking clarets rather than heavyweights. Tannins have softened to a fine dust, acidity is still bright, and the finish is dry and savoury with a little iron and dried herb rather than sweetness. The Garonne gravels with clay beneath show in the wine's mellow texture and even shape.

Serve with slow-cooked lamb shoulder, roast duck, mushroom risotto or a plate of aged hard cheeses. Older Haut-Médoc rewards simple, well-salted cooking more than anything showy, and a decant of thirty minutes will lift the aromatics.

Drinking now and best enjoyed over the next two to three years. The 2007 vintage was never built for the long haul, so there is no reward in waiting further.