The Delmonico 2020 is a rich, full-bodied Bordeaux Supérieur built on Merlot, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot filling in the frame. Made from Château Lescalle fruit in the Haut-Médoc and named for the storied New York restaurant, it is a generous, modern-styled red rather than a lean, austere claret.

Blackcurrant and dark plum lead the aromatics, with blackberry, fruitcake spice and a savoury edge of coffee and toasted nuts. The palate follows through with concentrated cassis and dried fig, a lick of caramel sweetness through the middle and a hint of cedar.

Two full years in oak barrels before blending have smoothed the tannins into something firm but polished, and there is enough grip on the finish to keep all that fruit in check. Texture is the strong suit here — deep and mouth-filling, with fresh acidity stopping the wine from turning soupy. The 2020 growing season across Bordeaux was warm and dry, and that shows in the ripeness of the fruit and the depth of colour.

Steak is the obvious call and the wine was practically built for it — a thick rib eye, hard-seared, with nothing more than salt. Beyond that, try slow-braised beef cheeks, lamb shoulder with rosemary, mushroom ragù over soft polenta, or a wedge of aged cheddar.

Drinking well now with an hour in a decanter, and it should hold comfortably through to around 2030.