Henri Bonneau Les Rouliers is a multi-vintage Grenache-led red from the Châteauneuf-du-Pape orbit of the southern Rhône Valley, bottled under Vin de France because much of the fruit comes from family vineyards across the river in the Gard, alongside declassified juice from Bonneau's own Châteauneuf holdings. Rather than sheer power, Les Rouliers trades in savoury perfume and drinkability, with the old-school Bonneau signature intact.

The nose leans dried red cherry, raspberry skin and orange peel, with garrigue herbs, cured meat and a dusty earthiness that builds in the glass. Air brings out tobacco leaf and a faint sweet-and-sour lift that marks the wine as unmistakably traditional rather than polished.

Medium-bodied and open-knit, Les Rouliers carries fine, slightly grainy tannins and a warm Grenache core held in check by brisk acidity. The wine has spent several years in wooden foudre and older barrels before unfiltered bottling, which shows in the resolved, silky texture and a finish that turns dry, stony and long.

Pour it with slow-cooked lamb shoulder, duck ragù, roast chicken with thyme, or a plate of charcuterie and washed-rind cheese. It also handles grilled eggplant and tomato-based dishes better than most reds of this weight.

Drink now through the next six to eight years. The multi-vintage blend arrives ready to go, though a decant of half an hour settles the wilder aromatics and lets the fruit come forward.