The Domaine du Joncier Lirac 2022 is a supple, medium to full-bodied red from the Lirac cru in France's southern Rhône Valley, built on Grenache with Mourvèdre and Syrah. Fresh and energetic rather than heavy, it carries the warmth of the season without losing its focus.

Dark cherry and plum lead the aromatics, backed by warm spice, dried thyme and a stony, mineral edge. The palate follows with pulpy black fruit through the middle and a lift of purple berry that keeps everything moving.

Tannins are fine and well-judged, giving shape without grip, and the fruit is grown biodynamically on the pebble-strewn ground of the appellation, with Demeter certification behind it. The finish is savoury and flavoursome, holding its line well past the last of the fruit.

Serve this Lirac with lamb shoulder cooked long and slow, merguez off the barbecue, a mushroom and thyme risotto, or a slab of aged sheep's milk cheese. It has enough freshness to handle tomato-based dishes that would flatten a richer red.

Drinking well from now through to around 2030, with the Mourvèdre component suggesting the middle years will be the most rewarding.