The Chaume-Arnaud Vinsobres 2020 is a Grenache-led red from Vinsobres in the southern Rhône Valley, generous in fruit but held together by the freshness that comes with altitude. Grenache leads at 60 per cent, filled out with Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre from old vines on stony limestone clay.

Crushed raspberry and dark plum come first, then black olive, cracked pepper and the dry garrigue herbs that mark so many good reds from this corner of France. There is a sweetness to the fruit on the nose without any sense of confection.

Fermented with wild yeasts and raised in concrete rather than wood, the wine keeps its fruit clear and unadorned. Tannins are firm but finely drawn, running through a medium to full-bodied palate and giving length to a finish that stays savoury and lifted rather than heavy. Bottled without fining or filtration, so a little sediment is normal.

Pour it with slow-cooked lamb shoulder, beef cheeks, duck, or a pepper steak. Grilled sausages and a plate of hard cheese will do the job just as well on a weeknight.

Drinking well now with an hour in a decanter, and the structure here should carry it comfortably through to around 2030.