The Château Mont-Redon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010 is a deep, savoury southern Rhône red with real freshness running underneath the ripeness. Now well into its second decade, this 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape has traded some of its youthful fruit for the earthy, spiced character that comes with age.

Dark cherry and stewed plum lead, with dried thyme and rosemary, black pepper, cured meat and a hint of leather and woodsmoke behind them. Air brings out something floral and faintly sweet, closer to dried violets than fresh fruit.

Full-bodied without being heavy, the palate is broad and warm across the middle, with tannins that have softened into something fine and dusty. The 2010 growing season across Châteauneuf-du-Pape combined warmth with good acid retention, and that shows here as a firm line of freshness holding the finish long and clean rather than letting it turn soupy.

Pour it with slow-cooked lamb shoulder, beef daube, duck confit, or a mushroom and thyme risotto. Aged hard cheeses work too, particularly a well-matured Comté or pecorino.

Drinking beautifully now and worth decanting for half an hour. Well-cellared bottles should hold and continue to develop through to around 2030.