Château Mont-Redon Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2013 is a mature, savoury Southern Rhône red in which sweet red fruit sits alongside leather, dried herb and spice rather than sheer power. Now well into its drinking life, this Châteauneuf-du-Pape has softened into something supple and warm without losing its freshness.

Aromatically the 2013 leads with stewed raspberry and red cherry, then clove, cracked pepper, orange peel and a hint of woodsmoke. The palate carries dark cherry and crushed berry fruit through a middle marked by cured meat, tobacco leaf and dried thyme.

Medium to full-bodied and reasonably concentrated, Mont-Redon's Châteauneuf-du-Pape has tannins that have resolved into a fine, dusty frame, with acidity keeping the fruit lifted rather than heavy. The finish is silky and long, drying gently towards earth and spice. The 2013 season in Châteauneuf-du-Pape was a cold, wet spring followed by late ripening and small yields, and that shows here as a wine of fragrance and balance rather than muscle — closer in build to the classic mid-weight vintages than to the ripest modern years.

Pour it with slow-roasted lamb shoulder, duck ragù, a mushroom and thyme risotto, braised beef cheeks, or hard sheep's milk cheeses. A decant of half an hour will help the aromatics open.

Drinking beautifully now and through to around 2028, with well-cellared bottles likely to hold a little longer.