The Château Mont-Redon Lirac 2022 is a warm, generous Rhône red built on Grenache Noir with Syrah and Mourvèdre alongside it, grown across the river from Châteauneuf-du-Pape near Roquemaure. Dark-fruited and spicy rather than heavy, it has the fine tannin and freshness to drink well from the start.

Aromatically the wine leads with black cherry and plum, then dried herbs, cracked pepper and a faint stony, warm-earth character underneath. The palate follows through with pulpy dark fruit and purple berry, a lick of liquorice and sweet spice, and a hint of toast from the portion of the blend raised in Burgundian barrels.

Medium to full in body, the 2022 Lirac carries its fruit on tannins that are firm but polished, with enough acidity to keep the middle of the palate juicy. Mourvèdre lends a savoury, slightly meaty grip at the back, and the finish is long, peppery and dry.

Roast lamb with rosemary and garlic is the obvious match, though a standing rib roast, slow-cooked beef cheeks, merguez off the barbecue or a plate of aged hard cheeses will all sit comfortably with the wine.

Mont-Redon suggest their red Lirac hits its stride in its third year, so the 2022 is entering a good patch now and should hold happily through to around 2030. A decant of half an hour helps if you are opening it early.