The JC's Own Rock:it 2022 is a medium-bodied Grenache Shiraz Mataro from Angaston in the Barossa Valley, built on juicy dark fruit and spice rather than sheer power. Grenache leads, with Shiraz and Mataro adding depth and a savoury edge.

Rock:it is a field blend, with the three varieties picked within a few days of each other and thrown into the one fermenter to ferment together. That co-ferment shows in the glass as a single voice rather than three: dark berries, plum skin, dried herbs and a lick of white pepper, with a faint floral lift behind the fruit.

The palate is plump and generous through the middle, then reined in by fine, dusty Barossa tannin that keeps everything tidy. Acidity is fresh enough to stop the richness settling, and the finish runs long and clean with the spice lingering after the fruit has gone.

Serve it slightly cool with lamb shoulder, grilled sausages with fennel, mushroom risotto or a Sunday roast. It has the fruit weight for barbecued red meat and the savoury side for slow-cooked pork and lentils.

The JC's Own Rock:it 2022 is drinking beautifully now and will hold for five or six years, with the tannin softening and the spice growing more prominent as the primary fruit settles back.