The Tappo Sauvignon Blanc 2024 is a bright, dry white from New Zealand built on citrus and green herb rather than sweetness. Fresh and quick on the tongue, it does what a good New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc should do: wake the palate up and keep it interested.

Aromatics lead with grapefruit and lime zest, a lift of passionfruit, and the cut-grass and snowpea edge that marks the variety. Behind the fruit sits a faint saline note that stops the wine smelling merely sweet-scented.

On the palate the Tappo Sauvignon Blanc carries crisp acidity through a light-to-medium body, with lemon pith and green apple giving it grip rather than roundness. Texture is clean and unadorned, and the finish is dry, tangy and reasonably long, closing on citrus rind.

Food-wise, pour it with oysters, whitebait fritters, salt and pepper squid or a plate of prawns with lemon. It also handles goat's cheese, asparagus and green salads with sharp vinaigrettes, all of which defeat softer whites, and it is very good simply cold on a warm afternoon.

Drink the 2024 now and over the next two years, while the aromatics are at their most vivid. Serve it properly chilled, around 8 to 10 degrees, and give the glass a few minutes out of the fridge if you want the tropical fruit to show more clearly.