Salomon Undhof's Kogl Riesling 2022 is a single-vineyard Erste Lage Riesling from Kremstal, a step riper and more generous than the 2021 from the same site.

Stone fruit and citrus blossom lead on the nose, with the mineral streak of the vineyard still evident underneath. On the palate the fruit is fuller - white peach and mandarin rather than pure lemon - though the site's characteristic saline grip keeps it from feeling soft.

The finish is long and dry, with good acid tension carrying the riper fruit through to a stony close.

Serve with roast chicken, river fish, or a creamy mushroom risotto. It also handles the gentle spice of Austrian and South-East Asian cooking well.

Drinking nicely now and with the structure to hold through to around 2030, gaining texture and complexity as the primary fruit settles.