Salomon Undhof's Kogl Riesling 2021 is a single-vineyard Erste Lage bottling from Kremstal on the Danube, built around lemon pith, green apple and a distinct wet-stone minerality.

The nose is tight and precise rather than showy, with white flowers and a faint smoky reduction giving way to citrus zest and orchard fruit. On the palate it's linear and taut, with the site's stony soils showing through as a saline, almost chalky texture underneath the fruit.

Acidity is the backbone here - bright and persistent, carrying the wine to a long, dry finish with a return of that mineral edge.

Pour it with Wiener schnitzel, trout, or a plate of soft washed-rind cheese. It's also a natural with Asian dishes built on lime, ginger and fresh herbs.

Drinking well now and through to around 2029, with the acid line to reward a few more years in the cellar for those who want the fruit to soften into something rounder.