Salomon Undhof Alma 2021 is a skin-fermented Riesling from Kremstal in Austria, textural and savoury rather than fruit-driven, with a gentle grip that sets it apart from conventional dry Riesling. Amber-tinged and dry, it drinks more like a slow-building white than a bright young aromatic.

Made from ripe Riesling fermented on skins in amphorae buried in the ground beside the winery — a practice the estate first tried in 2011 and named Alma, Latin for soul — the wine carries dried apricot, quince paste and orange peel, with beeswax, chamomile and a faint smoky note behind. Time in the glass draws out mandarin pith and something closer to dried herbs than to citrus.

The palate is broad and gently tannic, the skin contact giving a fine chalky pull across the middle rather than any hardness. Acidity runs underneath and keeps everything upright, and the finish is long, dry and faintly bitter in the way good amber wine should be.

Pour it with roast pork belly, a whole baked snapper with fennel, tagines, aged gouda or anything with turmeric and cumin in it. Serve it cool but not cold — around 12 degrees lets the texture speak.

Alma 2021 is drinking well now and has the structure to keep developing through to about 2030, softening its grip and taking on more tea leaf and dried citrus along the way.