The Dr Bürklin-Wolf Wachenheimer Riesling 2024 is a dry, village-level Riesling from Wachenheim in the Pfalz, built on citrus and stony minerality rather than richness. Bone-dry and precise, it carries the clarity you would expect from a biodynamically farmed estate working at this level.

Lemon zest, white peach and green apple lead the aromatics, with orange blossom and a flinty, smoky edge underneath that becomes more obvious as the wine warms in the glass. There is no sweetness here to soften the fruit, so the scent stays cool and taut.

The palate of this Wachenheimer Riesling is medium-bodied and juicy, with fine acidity running the length of it and a chalky, faintly salty texture across the middle. Fully fermented dry, it finishes long and savoury, the fruit giving way to something closer to wet stone.

Serve it with oysters, whiting fried in butter, prawn and green mango salad, or a plate of charcuterie and washed-rind cheese. It also handles pork belly and anything with a bit of chilli, where the acidity does the work that a heavier white could not.

Drink now through to about 2032, though a year or two in the cellar will let the smoky, mineral side settle in over the citrus.