The Dr Bürklin-Wolf Riesling trocken 2024 is a dry, brisk Riesling from Wachenheim in Germany's Pfalz, built around citrus and stony freshness rather than ripe fruit weight. It is an estate-level white with genuine drive, made in a taut, savoury style rather than a fruity one.

Lemon zest, green apple and white blossom lead the aroma, with a faint smokiness and a touch of almond sitting behind the fruit. There is a youthful, slightly reductive edge that blows off with a swirl and leaves the citrus sharper for it.

Juicy acidity runs the length of the palate, carrying grapefruit and lime pith over a fine, almost powdery texture. The wine is dry in the proper sense — no sweetness to soften it — and finishes long, gently spiced and floral, with a mineral tug that keeps the last sip cleaner than the first.

Pair the 2024 Riesling trocken with oysters, sashimi or a simple grilled flathead with lemon. It also handles pork schnitzel, roast chicken with herbs, Vietnamese salads and anything with a bit of chilli heat, where the acidity does the work a heavier white cannot.

Drink from now through to about 2031. Bürklin-Wolf's dry Riesling is enjoyable straight away for its energy, though a couple of years in the cellar will let the reductive notes settle and the texture broaden.