The Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese 2023 is a sweet, low-alcohol Mosel Riesling with the weightless feel this estate is known for. Botrytis gives it richness, but the acid keeps everything airborne rather than heavy.

Honeyed yellow peach and apricot lead the aromatics, with candied grapefruit, pear and rose behind them, plus a faint waft of smoke off the slate. Dried mango and orange marmalade build in the glass as it warms.

Sweetness arrives generously on the palate and is met immediately by a tight line of citrus acidity, so the wine tastes more refreshing than its sugar suggests. Texture is silky rather than syrupy, the mid-palate carries poached stone fruit and quince, and the finish is long, saline and clean, closing on grapefruit pith and cool herbs.

Serve it well chilled alongside a strong washed-rind or blue cheese, roast duck with cherries, or a tarte tatin. It also holds its own against fiery Thai and Sichuan cooking, where sweetness and acidity work together to settle the heat.

Riesling of this ripeness in the Mosel rewards patience: 2023 was a warm, early season in which noble rot arrived in October and demanded careful hand selection, and the resulting Auslese has both the concentration and the acidity to age. Lovely now for its fruit, better from 2029, and capable of running to 2050 and beyond in good cellaring.