The Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese 2023 is a sweet but weightless Mosel Riesling, closer to lemon sherbet and wet slate than to anything rich. Low in alcohol and high in acid, it carries its sugar lightly enough that the finish reads fresh rather than sticky.

Aromatically the Brauneberger Juffer gives white peach, mandarin peel and a little honeysuckle, with the smoky, mineral note the Mosel's slate slopes tend to leave behind. In the mouth there is ripe yellow stone fruit and lime cordial, cut through by a thread of citrus acidity that keeps everything moving.

Structure here comes almost entirely from acid rather than body. The wine is fine-boned and gently spritzy on entry, builds a little apricot sweetness through the middle, then narrows to a long, saline, tart-sweet close. At roughly 7.5% alcohol, this 2023 Spätlese is a wine you can drink a glass or three of without it wearing you down.

Pair it with Thai green curry, Sichuan chilli chicken, or a plate of pork belly with apple. It also handles blue cheese and stone-fruit tarts, and works on its own as an aperitif on a warm afternoon.

Lovely now for its fruit, though Riesling Spätlese from a site like Brauneberger Juffer typically rewards patience — expect this to drink well through to around 2040, trading primary citrus for honey, ginger and kerosene along the way.