The Fritz Haag Paulinshofberg Riesling Trocken GG 2022 is a dry Mosel Riesling with a floral, finely drawn edge rather than obvious power, built around orchard fruit and slate. Kesten's Paulinshofberg site gives it a rounder, apple-scented shape than the estate's Brauneberg bottlings, without loosening the acid line.

Aromatically the wine opens on green apple and lemon pith, with white flowers, a touch of tinned peach and the wet-stone character that shows up in good Mosel Riesling. Air brings a little more exotic fruit, mandarin and something closer to jasmine tea.

Dry, taut and mid-weight on the palate, the Paulinshofberg GG carries its 2022 fruit ripeness on a spine of Granny Smith acidity. The warm, dry 2022 season across the Mosel gave generous flavour, and here it reads as flesh and length rather than weight, the finish long, saline and quite fine, with almost no phenolic grip.

Pour it with steamed snapper and ginger, roast pork belly with apple, prawn dumplings, or a plate of charcuterie and washed-rind cheese. It also stands up to mild curry and to anything with a lemon-and-herb dressing.

Drinking well from 2025 with an hour in a decanter, and it should reward cellaring through to about 2035, gaining the toasty, honeyed notes that dry Riesling from steep Mosel slate develops with time.