The Fritz Haag Kätzchen Riesling Trocken GG 2022 is a bone-dry Mosel Riesling with real drive, built on citrus and slate rather than fruit weight. Grown on the steep slate slopes of the Monzeler Kätzchen, it carries the estate's house style of finesse and lift instead of muscle.

Lemon zest, white peach and a bruised-apple note lead the aromatics, with anise, wet stone and a faint smoky edge underneath. The palate is dry and taut, running grapefruit pith and green pear across a fine, saline core.

Structure comes from acidity rather than phenolic grip — a firm, cool line that stretches the fruit out and keeps everything upright. Texture is fine-boned but not thin, with a light chalky feel through the middle and a long, mineral finish that closes clean and slightly bitter in the best way. The warm, dry 2022 season shows as ripe, generous fruit at the front, though the wine finishes as dry and tense as ever.

Pair it with steamed snapper and ginger, pork schnitzel with lemon, prawn dumplings, or a plate of charcuterie and pickles. It also handles a Thai green curry better than most whites.

Drinking well from 2025 and holding through to 2034, with the mid-palate filling out considerably after another two or three years in bottle.