The Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett 2022 is a featherlight, fruity-styled Mosel Riesling built on citrus and orchard fruit rather than weight. Sweetness and acidity sit in close balance, so the wine tastes fresh and juicy well before it tastes sweet.

Vineyard peach and mango lead the aromatics, with slate, a little earthy spice and the faintly bready lift of a spontaneous ferment. The palate follows with white peach and lemon, apple skin and a mouth-watering citrus zest that keeps everything brisk.

Picked at moderate ripeness and fermented to around 45 grams per litre of residual sugar, the Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett carries that sweetness on a fine, low-alcohol frame. In 2022 the Mosel saw stretches of heat so severe that vines shut down and ripening stalled, which has left the wine leaning savoury and mineral rather than plush. Acidity runs straight through the middle and the finish is long, tapering and faintly smoky.

Serve it well chilled with Thai green curry, salt and pepper squid, roast pork belly with apple, or a plate of washed-rind cheese and stone fruit. It is also good on its own as an aperitif on a hot afternoon.

Drink now through to 2040, with the sugar and acid line suggesting the middle of that stretch will be the most rewarding.