The Fritz Haag Riesling Feinherb 2023 is an off-dry Mosel Riesling built on tension rather than sweetness, with fine peach and citrus fruit carried by brisk cool-climate acidity. Feinherb sits between dry and fruity, so there is just enough sugar to round the edges without the wine reading as sweet.

Aromatics are lifted and precise: white peach, lemon pith, green apple skin and a touch of blossom, with the flinty, slate-driven character that marks Riesling from the steep hillside vineyards at Brauneberg. The palate follows the nose closely, all nectarine and mandarin, with a herbal, almost savoury edge sitting underneath the fruit.

Weight is light to medium, the texture juicy rather than plush, and the acidity runs straight through the middle of the wine and out the other side. That push and pull between residual sweetness and acid is the whole point here, and the finish is drier and firmer than the fruit suggests, closing long and stony.

Pair it with Thai and Vietnamese food, chilli-spiked prawns, roast pork belly, smoked trout, or a pork and fennel sausage off the barbecue. Salty, fatty and mildly hot dishes all sit comfortably alongside a wine with this much acid and a little sugar in reserve.

Drink now through to about 2030. It is thoroughly enjoyable young and cold, though a couple of years in the cellar will let the fruit settle and the slate character come further forward.