The Trimbach Riesling Geisberg 2019 is a tightly wound, bone-dry Alsace Grand Cru Riesling that leads with citrus and stony austerity rather than fruit sweetness. Concentrated and slow to open, the 2019 Geisberg is built for the cellar as much as the table.

Lime peel, white peach and grapefruit pith come first, with a chalky, almost smoky edge behind them and a faint suggestion of anise. Air brings out white flowers and a touch of beeswax.

The palate is taut and linear, the fruit held in check by firm acidity and a mineral grip that comes from the marl, limestone and sandstone soils of the Geisberg Grand Cru above Ribeauvillé, where Trimbach farms the largest share of the site. Texture is more about tension than weight, and the finish is long, dry and faintly saline, with a savoury bitterness that keeps pulling you back.

Pour it with sole meunière, scallops, roast pork with apple, or an Alsatian onion tart. It also handles smoked trout, prosciutto and firm washed-rind cheeses without breaking a sweat.

Drink from 2026 through to 2035 and beyond. Young Geisberg is rewarding but reserved; five years in the cellar will let the honey, toast and truffle characters that mark mature Trimbach Riesling emerge, and the acidity here will comfortably carry it a decade further.