The Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile 2017 is a bone-dry Alsace Riesling built on citrus, orchard fruit and a firm mineral spine rather than richness. Drawn from the Geisberg and Osterberg grand cru slopes above Ribeauvillé and held in the cellars for several years before release, it arrives with a little maturity already in hand.

Lemon and white grapefruit lead, with green apple, crushed stone and a touch of dried herb and beeswax that signals early bottle age. A faint waxy, kerosene-like lift sits behind the fruit rather than over it.

The palate is taut and linear, with real drive through the middle and a chalky, almost saline grip on the back half. 2017 was a less sun-drenched season than the year that followed it, and that shows in the wine's energy: ripe citrus zest and vegetal edge, plenty of volume, then a crisp, incisive finish that runs long and completely dry.

Serve it with steamed blue swimmer crab, oysters, a whole snapper with lemon, or roast pork with apple. It also handles smoked trout and lightly spiced Vietnamese dishes without flinching.

Approachable now with an hour in the decanter, though this Alsace Riesling has the acidity and structure to reward cellaring through to 2035 and beyond, gaining toast, honey and dried citrus as it goes.