The Trimbach Riesling Vieilles Vignes 2020 is a dry, tightly drawn Alsace Riesling built on citrus and stony austerity rather than fruit sweetness. Drawn from old vines and made in the house's famously bone-dry style, it is a white with real tension and a long, mineral close.

Lime peel, green apple and white blossom lead the aromatics, with a waxy, faintly smoky note underneath that old-vine Riesling tends to develop. The palate is dry and precise, moving through grapefruit, quince and a savoury hint of fennel.

Acidity is the frame here, crystalline and cutting straight down the middle of the wine, while the old-vine fruit fills out the mid-palate and keeps things from feeling severe. The 2020 growing season in Alsace was warm and dry with an early harvest, and that shows as ripeness of texture rather than weight, the finish salty and dry with excellent length.

Serve it with seared scallops, roast chicken with lemon, a plate of oysters, or the classic Alsace pairing of choucroute and pork. It also stands up to Thai and Vietnamese dishes where lime and chilli are doing the work.

Drinking well now if given a decant, and a wine of this cut from Alsace should hold and improve in the cellar through to at least 2032.