The Trimbach Riesling Réserve 2022 is a dry, taut Alsace Riesling with real concentration behind its citrus, drawn from estate vineyards around Ribeauvillé and Bergheim on limestone soils. Warm, dry conditions across the 2022 growing season gave ripe fruit and depth, while September rain kept the acidity intact, so the wine has weight without ever turning soft.

Lemon and grapefruit lead the aromatics, with mirabelle and white peach behind them, a touch of chamomile and the faintly smoky, stony character Riesling tends to pick up on limestone. Air brings out something more savoury and herbal, along with a light dusting of spice.

Bone dry on the palate, with generous stone fruit fleshing out the middle before a chalky, fine-grained grip takes over. Acidity runs straight through the wine rather than sitting on the edges, and the finish is long, saline and clean, the sort of persistence that makes you reach for the glass again rather than the water.

Pour it with fresh oysters, sashimi, a plate of prawns with lemon, or roast pork belly with apple. It also handles Alsatian classics well, tarte flambée or a choucroute, and stands up to mild spice in Thai and Vietnamese cooking better than most dry whites.

Drinking beautifully now, though the Trimbach Riesling Réserve has the structure to reward cellaring through to around 2032, gaining toast and honeyed depth as the primary citrus recedes.