The Jean Luc Mader Riesling Burgweg 2023 is a dry, tightly wound Alsace Riesling from a lieu-dit parcel near Ribeauvillé, built on citrus and chalky minerality rather than richness. Lively and precise, it carries plenty of flavour on a frame that stays lean.

Lime zest, green apple skin and white peach come through first, with lemon blossom and a struck-flint edge underneath. A little time in the glass brings out something waxier and more savoury, the way good Alsace Riesling tends to do.

The palate of the Burgweg Riesling is dry and taut, with acidity running straight down the middle and a faint salty grip along the edges. Grown on the limestone and clay soils around Hunawihr and Ribeauvillé, and fermented on whole bunches for a long, slow vinification, the wine finishes long and stony, more mineral than fruit by the end.

Serve it with oysters, steamed blue swimmer crab, a plate of charcuterie and pickles, or a schnitzel with lemon. It also handles Thai green curry and salt-and-pepper squid better than most dry whites.

Drink from now through to 2033. Riesling of this cut usually rewards patience, and a few years in the cellar will trade some of the primary citrus for honey, toast and kerosene.