The Jean Luc Mader Riesling 2023 is a dry, finely drawn Alsace Riesling built on citrus and stony minerality rather than richness. Made by a small family domaine in the village of Hunawihr, it is a classic dry style from organically farmed vines that rewards a little patience.

Lime juice and green apple lead the aromatics, with quince, orange blossom and a faint honeysuckle lift behind them. There is a wet-stone character that becomes more obvious as the wine warms in the glass.

Hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed and fermented in stainless steel with wild yeast, the wine spends six to eight months on fine lees, and that shows in a palate with more texture than the aroma suggests. The fruit comes from several mostly limestone parcels around Hunawihr, and the result is a dry, medium-bodied Riesling with a firm acid spine, a chalky grip through the middle and a long, clean, citrus-pith finish.

Pair it with Sydney rock oysters, snapper baked whole with lemon, prawn and green mango salad, or a plate of charcuterie and gruyère. It also handles gentle chilli heat well, so Thai and Vietnamese cooking are fair game.

Drink the Mader Riesling 2023 now through to about 2031. Mader's dry Rieslings typically need a few years for the youthful acidity to settle back and let the fruit come forward, so cellaring five years or so will be repaid.