The Kientzler Riesling Schoenenbourg Grand Cru 2022 is a dry, tightly wound Alsace Riesling with real weight behind its citrus core. Lemon and white peach carry the fruit, but the wine's character sits in its stony, almost saline finish rather than in ripeness.

Lime zest, yellow apple and a touch of white flower open the glass, with the flinty, mineral edge that Schoenenbourg tends to give its Riesling. Air brings out something waxier and more savoury, closer to ginger and honeycomb than to primary fruit.

The 2022 season across Alsace was hot and dry, and this bottling shows that in its concentration and generous mid-palate, though the acidity remains bright and drives the wine long. Texture is the standout — a fine, slightly oily feel across the tongue that broadens through the middle before the finish narrows and turns dry and chalky.

Serve it with pan-fried snapper, scallops in brown butter, roast pork with apple, or a Vietnamese chicken salad with plenty of lime and herbs. Riesling of this style also does well with a washed-rind cheese if you like the contrast.

Drinking well from now, with the structure to reward five to ten years in a cool cellar as the fruit gives way to toast and kerosene.