The Kientzler Riesling Kirchberg 2022 is a dry, tightly wound Riesling from the Kirchberg Grand Cru in Alsace, built on stone fruit and a firm mineral spine rather than any sense of richness. Despite a hot, dry growing season across Alsace in 2022, the wine has come through bright and focused, with the fruit sitting well inside a clean line of acidity.

Aromas run to white peach, lemon pith and ripe pear, with wet stone and a faint waxy, kerosene lift that will grow with age. The palate follows through with orchard fruit and citrus, edged by a saline, iodine-like savouriness that keeps it well clear of anything sweet or simple.

Structurally this is a taut wine. Acidity does the work, drawing the fruit out long and narrow, while a subtle waxiness across the mid-palate gives it texture and stops the finish from feeling austere. It closes dry, chalky and persistent, with real drive.

Serve it with grilled snapper, prawns, roast chicken with lemon and thyme, or a pork and fennel dish. It also holds its own against choucroute and mildly spiced Asian food, where the acidity cuts richness without losing the fruit.

Drinking well now if you like the primary fruit, though the Kirchberg Grand Cru Riesling from 2022 has the acid structure and concentration to reward cellaring through to 2035 and beyond, when the citrus turns to honey and the mineral character comes forward.