The André Kientzler Riesling Muhlforst 2020 is a dry, tightly drawn Alsace Riesling built on citrus and stony minerality rather than weight or perfume. Muhlforst sits above the village of Hunawihr on clay-rich soils that adjoin Grand Cru Rosacker, and the wine has a little more flesh and early generosity than the domaine's leaner village bottlings.

Aromas run to lemon and white grapefruit, green apple skin, crushed stone and a faint waxy note that comes with a few years in bottle. The palate is dry and precise, with lime pith and yellow apple carried on a fine, chalky line; 2020 was a warm, early-picked season in Alsace and it shows in the ripeness of the fruit rather than in any softness.

Structurally this is a Riesling of tension. Acidity is high but not austere, the texture faintly saline and grippy through the middle, and the finish long, dry and mineral, closing on citrus zest and wet stone.

Serve it with oysters, sashimi or grilled whiting, or lift it into richer territory with roast pork belly, choucroute, or a soft washed-rind cheese. Alsatian onion tart and Riesling of this cut is a pairing worth keeping in mind.

Drinking well now with an hour in the decanter, and the acid line suggests it will hold and gain honeyed complexity through to around 2032.