The Schoffit Riesling Rangen 2022 is a dry, tightly wound Alsace Grand Cru Riesling grown on the steep volcanic rock of the Rangen at Thann, where Schoffit's Clos Saint-Théobald sits. Smoky and mineral rather than fruit-forward, it trades floral prettiness for depth and a savoury, stony core.

Aromatically the wine opens flinty and a little reduced, then unfolds into white peach, lime pith, green apple and a whiff of aniseed. Air brings out crushed rock and dried citrus peel, with the fruit sitting behind the mineral rather than in front of it.

Medium bodied and dry, the Rangen Grand Cru fruit gives real density through the middle without any sense of weight, and the acidity runs hard and straight from front to back. Texture comes from time on fine lees, which softens the edges of a wine built on tension, and the finish is long, salty and faintly bitter in the way good volcanic-soil whites usually are.

Serve it with something that can meet that intensity: roast pork belly, seared scallops, a Vietnamese-style prawn salad, or a plate of Alsace charcuterie and washed-rind cheese. Aged Comté works beautifully too.

Drink from now to 2038. The 2022 is approachable young if given an hour in a decanter, though the acid structure suggests the wine will be more interesting after 2028, as the smoky, honeyed side of mature Riesling emerges.