The Schoffit Riesling Sommerberg Grand Cru 2022 is a taut, dry Alsace Riesling with more line than flesh, pale in the glass and built around citrus and stony minerality. Grown on the pure granite at the top of the Sommerberg Grand Cru, it carries the cut you would hope for from the site without heaviness.

Lemon zest, white peach and grapefruit pith lead the aromatics, with a flinty, almost smoky edge underneath and a lift of white blossom. Air brings out something waxier and more savoury, the fruit turning from fresh to preserved lemon.

The palate is dry and finely drawn, acidity running straight through the middle rather than sitting at the edges. Granite-grown Riesling from Sommerberg tends to trade weight for tension, and this 2022 does exactly that: slim, saline, with a chalky grip through the back half and a long, mineral finish. A warm, dry growing season across Alsace in 2022 has given the fruit a little more flesh and ripeness than the leanest years, which softens the attack without dulling the acid.

Drink it with oysters, sashimi, scallops seared hard in butter, or a whole snapper with lemon and fennel. It also holds up to roast pork belly and to a plate of alpine cheeses.

Drinking well from now, though it will reward five to ten years in a cool cellar, where the citrus turns toastier and the mineral character deepens.