The Pooley Cooinda Vale Riesling 2022 is a taut, dry Riesling from the Coal River Valley in southern Tasmania, built on lime and river-stone rather than perfume alone. Bone-dry and tightly wound, it carries the kind of natural acidity that makes Tasmanian Riesling worth putting away.

Aromatics lift out of the glass with lemon zest, green apple skin and white flowers, backed by a faint talc-and-wet-stone character. The palate follows through with lime juice, nashi pear and a touch of grapefruit pith, all of it clean and unadorned.

Structure is the point here. Acid runs straight down the middle of the wine, dry and chalky, while the fruit sits either side of it without ever turning sweet. The finish is long, saline and faintly bitter in the way good Riesling should be, leaving the mouth watering rather than coated.

Pour it with oysters, sashimi or salt-and-pepper squid, where the acidity does the work of a squeeze of lemon. It also handles Thai green papaya salad, roast chicken with plenty of lemon in the cavity, or a plain plate of goat's cheese and rye crispbread.

Drinking well now if you like Riesling in its citrus-and-crunch phase, and the Cooinda Vale vineyard fruit has the acid backbone to carry it a good decade in the cellar, where toast and honeyed depth will slowly build.