The Pooley Butcher's Hill Riesling 2022 is a dry, tightly wound single-vineyard Riesling from the Coal River Valley in southern Tasmania. Grown on the steep north-facing slope of the Butcher's Hill vineyard at Richmond, it is built on citrus and cool-climate acidity rather than weight or sweetness.

Aromatically the wine is lifted and floral, with jasmine and orange blossom over lime zest, green apple and a touch of preserved lemon. There is a chalky, crushed-stone edge underneath that becomes more obvious as the wine warms in the glass.

Hand-picked in late April and whole-bunch pressed to tank, the 2022 has real drive through the middle. The palate is narrow and concentrated, all lime and grapefruit pith, with a slinky acid line carrying it long and dry. Five months on fine lees has softened the edges just enough to give the texture some flesh, though the finish stays taut and mineral.

Serve it with Bruny Island oysters, sashimi, whole roasted flounder or salt-and-pepper squid. It also holds up to spice, so a Thai green curry or a bowl of laksa is no stretch.

Drink now through to around 2035. The Butcher's Hill Riesling is approachable young, but the acid structure is the sort that rewards patience, with toast and lanolin arriving somewhere after the five-year mark.