The Bubb + Pooley Riesling 2024 is a dry, high-acid white from the Coal River Valley in Tasmania, made by Anna Pooley and Justin Bubb from hand-harvested, whole-bunch-pressed fruit. The 2024 season swung back to warmer, faster-ripening conditions after several cool years, and the wine carries a little more flesh and roundness because of it.

Lime juice and lemon pith lead, with white blossom, green apple skin and a faint waft of talc and wet stone behind them. Fermented in stainless steel to dryness with minimal lees time, the aromatics stay clean and unadorned.

The palate is taut but not austere, the ripeness of the year filling out the middle before a firm line of acidity takes over. Texture is a hallmark of the Bubb + Pooley wines and this Riesling has real presence to it, finishing dry, long and faintly bitter in the way good Coal River Riesling should.

Pour it with Bruny Island oysters, salt-and-pepper squid, a Vietnamese chicken salad or fresh goat's cheese on sourdough. It also handles chilli better than most whites, so green curry and som tam are fair game.

Drinking well from release and worth cellaring: the acid profile suggests it will hold and build toast and lanolin complexity through to around 2034.