The Weingut Bründlmayer Tradition Kollektiv Grüner Veltliner 2025 is a dry white from Austria's Kamptal, built around citrus, white pepper and that savoury lentil-like note the variety does so well. It is a more serious style of Grüner than the brisk everyday bottlings, with real presence through the middle.

Aromatically it leads with grapefruit pith, green apple and lemon zest, then a lift of crushed white pepper and fresh herbs. There is a faint smokiness underneath, closer to wet stone than anything fruity.

The palate is dry and firm, with a line of acidity running the length of it and a slightly chalky, phenolic grip across the tongue. Stone fruit and lime fill out the middle, and the finish is long and peppery, drying rather than soft. This is a Grüner Veltliner with structure, and it rewards a decent glass and a few minutes in the air.

Wiener Schnitzel is the obvious call and a good one, but it is just as happy with roast chicken and lemon, grilled asparagus, pork cutlets with mustard, or a plate of prawns. The pepper and acid also cut through richer Asian dishes better than most dry whites.

Drink from 2026 through to around 2033, with the fruit giving way to honeyed, toasty complexity as it goes.