The Salomon Undhof Wieden Grüner Veltliner 2021 is a dry, medium-bodied Kremstal DAC white with the peppery lift Grüner Veltliner is known for and a clean, mineral-edged finish. In 1.5L magnum, it is a wine for a long table rather than a Tuesday night, and the larger format means it will hold its freshness longer than the standard bottle.

Pale straw with a green tinge in the glass. The aroma runs to green apple, grapefruit pith and yellow stone fruit, with anise, dried meadow herbs and a twist of white pepper sitting behind the fruit.

Salomon Undhof's Wieden shows more sinew than weight: a slender, elegant frame, apple and citrus flavours carried on fresh acidity, and a savoury, salty tail that keeps pulling you back. Rated 92 points by Falstaff, this 2021 Kremstal Grüner has genuine cellaring capacity, and a magnum will get there slowly and evenly.

Pour it with roast chicken and lemon, schnitzel, a whole baked snapper, or a spread of charcuterie, cured trout and cheeses across a shared table. Asparagus and green vegetables, difficult for most whites, are easy work here.

Drinking well now through to around 2030, with the magnum likely to reward the patient end of that range.