The Trimbach Sylvaner Weinbaum 2023 is a dry, clean-lined white from Alsace that trades on freshness rather than perfume. Sylvaner rarely shouts, and this one leans into that — quiet, savoury and built for the table.

Green apple and lemon pith lead the aroma, with white peach, crushed herbs and a faint smokiness sitting behind. The palate is dry and cool in feel, carrying pear, grapefruit and a hint of white pepper.

Acidity does the structural work here, firm and even from the first sip through to a chalky, faintly bitter finish that keeps things appetising. Texture is light to medium, with just enough weight across the middle to stop it feeling austere. The 2023 growing season in Alsace was a mild, damp one that tested growers before turning good, and the wine reflects that in its restraint — moderate ripeness, plenty of tension, no excess.

Sylvaner belongs with simple, salty food: charcuterie, a plate of oysters, fried whitebait, tarte flambée, or a roast chicken with plenty of lemon. It also handles asparagus and goat's cheese, which defeat plenty of other whites.

Drink the Trimbach Sylvaner Weinbaum 2023 over the next three to four years, served properly cold. There is no rush, but the appeal lies in its youthful bite rather than anything that comes with age.