The Philippe Collotte Aligoté 2024 is a taut, dry white from Burgundy, built on lemon and green apple rather than richness. Aligoté, a sibling of Chardonnay, gives a lighter and more nervy wine here, and the 2024 vintage in Burgundy — a cool, wet, mildew-plagued season that cut yields sharply and pushed picking later — has left it especially bright and low in weight.

The nose is lifted and citrus-driven: lemon zest, white nectarine and a touch of crushed herb, with a chalky, almost saline lift behind the fruit. Small yellow orchard fruits come through with a swirl, along with a hint of white blossom.

Acidity is the frame of this wine. The palate is slim and quick, with a mouth-watering line running from the front through to a dry, faintly mineral finish, and just enough flesh across the middle to stop it feeling austere. Texture is smooth rather than broad, and the finish is clean and persistent.

Oysters and other raw shellfish are the natural match, as is grilled whiting with lemon. It also handles goat's cheese, chicken salads, salt-and-pepper squid and anything you'd otherwise reach for a squeeze of citrus with. Serve it properly cold, around 8–10°C.

Drink the Philippe Collotte Aligoté 2024 now and over the next three to four years, while its freshness and citrus drive are at their most vivid.