The Ministry of Clouds Picpoul 2025 is a bone-dry, high-acid white from McLaren Vale that leans on citrus and sea spray rather than tropical fruit. Picpoul is still rare in Australia, and this McLaren Vale version keeps the crunch and salinity that made the variety's name on the Mediterranean.

Lemon zest, green apple skin and a squeeze of lime lead the aromatics, with a chalky, almost briny edge sitting underneath. The palate follows the same line: grapefruit pith, unripe pear and a flick of fennel, all held tight and clean.

Acidity does the structural work here, running straight through the middle of the wine and drawing the finish out long and dry. Texture is lean rather than plush, with just enough phenolic grip to stop it feeling thin, and the aftertaste is savoury and mouth-watering. Ministry of Clouds grow the fruit on their own McLaren Vale vineyard, which is unusual for the variety in this country.

Oysters are the obvious call, and a good one. Beyond that, try it with grilled whiting, salt and pepper squid, prawn rolls, goat's cheese, or a bowl of pasta with garlic, chilli and parsley. Serve it properly cold.

Drink the Picpoul 2025 over the next two to three years while the acid is at its most vivid and the citrus is still primary.