The Trimbach Gewurztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles "Hors Choix" 2008 is a rare, deeply sweet Alsace white made only in exceptional years, from hand-picked botrytised fruit. Intensely golden and powerfully concentrated, it carries its sweetness on a line of freshness rather than sitting heavy in the glass.

Lifted aromatics of ripe peach, candied lime zest and dried apricot arrive first, backed by ginger, rose petal and the peppery spice that marks good Gewurztraminer. The palate is unctuous and generous, with honeyed stone fruit, marmalade and a sweet-savoury botrytis character running through it.

Full-bodied and round, this Alsace Gewurztraminer has real grip beneath the richness, with fine tannin and firm structure holding the residual sugar in shape. The finish is long, mineral and cleansing, which is what separates a great Sélection de Grains Nobles from something merely sweet. Trimbach produce Gewurztraminer at this level only rarely — 2000, 2001, 2007 and 2008 — and the fruit must reach a minimum 18.2° potential with noble rot before it is picked.

Pour it with foie gras, blue cheese and washed-rind cheeses, or a fruit tart built on apricot or mango. It also handles spice well: lacquered duck, or a mild curry with plenty of aromatics.

Drinking beautifully now and structured to hold through to 2040 and beyond, given cool, still cellaring.