The Trimbach Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives 2018 is a rich, late-harvest Gewurztraminer from Alsace, sweet but held in check by Trimbach's characteristically firm, dry-edged style. Concentration here comes from ripeness and patience in the vineyard rather than any heaviness in the glass.

Lychee and rose petal lead, followed by candied ginger, quince paste, dried apricot and a whiff of orange rind. Air brings something more savoury — beeswax, warm spice and a faint smokiness that keeps the perfume from turning sugary.

The palate is unctuous and broad across the middle, with honeyed stone fruit and glacé citrus carried on a thick, almost oily texture. What sets it apart is the finish: a mineral, slightly bitter twist of grapefruit pith and spice pulls the sweetness up short and leaves the mouth clean rather than cloying. The warm, dry Alsace summer of 2018 shows in the sheer ripeness and generosity of fruit, though the wine still finishes with drive.

Pour it with foie gras or a chicken liver parfait, blue cheese and washed-rind cheeses, or a tarte Tatin. It also handles fragrant Thai and Sichuan dishes better than most sweet wines, the spice meeting spice head-on.

Drinking beautifully now, with the structure to develop through to 2038 and beyond, gaining toasted nut and dried-fruit complexity as the primary perfume settles.