The Trimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre 2015 is a rich, off-dry Alsace white with real power behind its perfume. Made from old vines on predominantly Keuper marl-limestone soils and produced only in the best years, it carries its concentration with unusual clarity for the variety.

Rose petal, lychee and mango lead the aroma, backed by grapefruit pith, honey and sweet baking spice. The palate follows the nose closely — tropical fruit and orange peel, a lick of ginger, and a stony freshness that keeps everything in line rather than letting the sweetness spread.

Texture is the point of difference here. There is a fine tannic grip and a saline, vibrant thread of acidity that makes the 2015 taste less sweet than the numbers suggest, and the finish runs long and dry-edged, with mango and spice repeating well after the wine has gone. The warm, generous 2015 season in Alsace shows in the depth of fruit, not in heaviness.

Serve it around 12 to 14°C with aromatic, spice-driven food: Thai green curry, Peking duck pancakes, a Vietnamese pork banh mi, or crisp-skinned roast duck with plum. It also handles washed-rind cheeses and mild blue better than most whites, and can stand alone in place of dessert.

Drinking beautifully now and structured to hold and gain complexity for another decade or more.