The Jean-Luc Mader Gewurztraminer 2021 is an aromatic Alsace white with the variety's lychee and rose perfume held in a fresher, more restrained frame than most. Made from hand-harvested, whole-bunch pressed fruit fermented with natural yeasts and aged on fine lees, it carries plenty of spice without tipping into sweetness.

Lychee leads, followed by rose petal, poached pear and a dusting of ginger and cardamom. There is a faint hint of orange peel and honeysuckle behind the fruit, and the aromatics build in the glass rather than shouting from the first pour.

The palate is broad and gently oily in texture, as Gewurztraminer should be, but 2021 has given the wine a salty, tightly drawn line of acidity that keeps everything moving. Ripe stone fruit and musk sit against that freshness, and the finish is dry-tasting, faintly bitter in the way of citrus pith, and long. The cool, classic 2021 season in Alsace shows here as elegance and drive rather than sheer weight — the producers themselves compare it to Alsace wines of thirty years ago.

Pour it with Thai green curry, roast pork belly with apple, smoked duck or a plate of washed-rind cheese. It also does good work with anything carrying ginger, coriander or chilli.

Drinking beautifully now and through to around 2029, with the acidity of the vintage suggesting the more patient will be rewarded.