The Jean-Luc Mader Gewurztraminer Dry 2023 is an aromatic Alsace white made in a genuinely dry style, so the perfume arrives without the sweetness Gewurztraminer often carries. Lychee and rose sit over something firmer and more savoury than the variety's reputation suggests.

Lift the glass and you get rose petal, lychee and pink grapefruit skin, with ginger and a faint waft of orange blossom behind. The palate follows through with white peach, quince and a dusting of baking spice, all of it clean and clearly drawn rather than heady.

Texture is where this Gewurztraminer earns its keep. There is real weight across the middle, a slightly oily, talc-like feel typical of the grape, but the dry finish cuts back through it and leaves the mouth fresh instead of cloyed. The 2023 growing season in Alsace was a warm one, and you can taste the ripeness in the fruit, though acidity holds the shape together. Grapes are organically grown.

Serve it with roast pork and apple, Alsatian tarte flambée, or a Vietnamese chicken salad with plenty of coriander and chilli. Munster and other washed-rind cheeses are a classic match, and lightly spiced Thai and Indian dishes work well when the wine is dry rather than sweet.

Drink now through to about 2029, ideally with a couple of years in the cellar to let the aromatics settle and the texture broaden.