The Kientzler Gewurztraminer 2022 is a richly perfumed, dry-leaning Alsace white with the exotic fruit you expect from the variety and more line and lift than most. Warmth in the 2022 growing season has given it real ripeness, but the wine still finishes savoury rather than sweet.

Lychee, rose petal and pink grapefruit lead the aromatics, with ginger, orange blossom and a dusting of Turkish delight behind them. The palate follows through with poached quince, mandarin peel and preserved lemon, generous and mouthfilling without tipping into syrup.

Texture is the point here: viscous and faintly oily across the middle, then drawn tight by phenolic grip and a gentle bitterness on the close. That firmness is what keeps a warm-season Alsace Gewurztraminer honest, and the finish is long, spicy and dry-tasting.

Pour it with aromatic Asian food where a drier Australian white would fall over — Sichuan pork, chicken laksa, a green mango salad with chilli and peanut. Munster or a ripe washed-rind cheese is the classic call, and roast duck with quince works just as well.

Drink now through to around 2030, decanting or simply giving it a wide glass if opened young. Serve it cool but not cold, about 10 to 12 degrees, or the perfume shuts down.