The Domaine Schoffit Gewurztraminer Cuvée Caroline 2023 is a richly perfumed white from the Harth lieu-dit outside Colmar in Alsace, built on ripe stone fruit and rose rather than sheer sweetness. It sits just off-dry, with enough spice and grip to keep the fruit in check.

Lychee, yellow peach and turkish delight lead the aroma, with rose petal and a dusting of ground ginger behind them. The palate is broad and mouthfilling, running through poached quince, orange blossom and candied citrus peel, with a faint honeyed edge that comes with properly ripe Gewurztraminer.

Texture is the point here. Schoffit's Cuvée Caroline carries real weight without going soft, the sweetness cut by phenolic grip that dries the finish and leaves a savoury, almost bitter twist of grapefruit pith. Acidity is gentle rather than sharp, so the wine finishes long and warm instead of crisp.

Serve it with anything that wants a little sweetness on the other side of the plate: Thai green curry, pork belly with apple, salt and pepper squid, or a slab of washed-rind cheese at the end of a long lunch. Duck with plum works particularly well, as does smoked trout with pickled cucumber.

Drinking well now and through to around 2032, with the fruit slowly giving way to honey, dried ginger and marmalade as it goes.